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Old 12-15-2009, 05:52 PM
msklarsen msklarsen is offline
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Question 2007 fit cuts out ( randum )

I have a problem while driving. It will run fine for a while and start to stall an than pick up again, off an on. what to look for.?
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Old 12-15-2009, 07:06 PM
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The usual cause of that is one of the 4 coils(coil packs) are breaking down.... It is due to the wiring developing a break that separates at a certain temperature or vibration frequency causing a stuttering and loss of power, and then runs normally again as the vibration frequency changes and or the temperature cools on the affected coil.... Usually if one is going bad the others also do in short order.... There are pages and pages of post on this problem at fitfreak.net.... If you can hook up an OBD 2 code reader and get a reading immediately after shutting off the engine as it is occurring you can identify the culprit and replace that one but from what I have learned since following the stories told by those that have had this problem is to go ahead and replace all four of them at once... The sure fire method of diagnosing and determining which is bad is to buy or borrow one from a friends car and replace a coil on your car with it and then the next and so on until the engine acts right and you have found the problem coil... It won't be long until you will be doing it again so plan on replacing all of them.
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Old 12-15-2009, 07:42 PM
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As usual, VillageIdiot is right. I have read the same pages of posts on this problem. I PM'd member macbuddy and asked him to post more info- he experienced this same problem over a month's time last year, and solved it as described above. He will probably chime in here when he gets home from work late tonight.

When you consider all of the annoying little bad habits that the Fit seems to have, buying a ScanGauge seems to be a great, but inexpensive, investment for anyone with a Fit. It will diagnose what is causing your engine problems, accurately report your gas mileage, tell you your actual engine coolant temp., and hundreds of other things. And by using it to clear a malfunction code just once, instead of paying a dealer to do it, it has just paid for itself.

Last edited by manxman; 12-15-2009 at 07:48 PM.
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Old 12-16-2009, 01:02 AM
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macbuddy macbuddy is offline
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Default ...close the gap!

Quote:
Originally Posted by msklarsen View Post
I have a problem while driving. It will run fine for a while and start to stall an than pick up again, off an on. what to look for.?
msklarsen,

THE QUESTION
So, does your Fit basically act up when putting a load on the engine? Does this usually occur above ~2,800 rpms?
If not, then the following may not apply.

MY SYMPTOMS
I usually noticed this problem when trying to power out of a turn, and/or trying to overtake slower vehicles. I could reproduce these symptoms on demand by merely attempting WOT exercises. These symptoms became more annoying as time went by. Although my Fit was still driveable, I had to "baby it" in a manner that was not typical of my driving style. Not fun!

MY FIX
I tried two things before the Fit became driveable again. First, I changed the VTEC solenoid. That did not totally cure the problem. Secondly, I merely regapped the spark plugs from the OEM spec of .040", down to .035". To my relief, closing that gap took care of my month long stuttering problem. Performance was restored, mpg restored and confidence restored. I performed this task around July 2009 and haven't had any problems since.

YOUR OPTIONS
If I were you, try the re-gap first, this is basically a free fix, as long as you don't damage any plugs (allow about 30 minutes to re-gap all four plugs). If this doesn't work for you, then you may want to try the VTEC solenoid fix for ~$150 (allow 2 minutes for this procedure). If all else fails, then you may unfortunately have to go with the 4 coil-pack change out, a DIY fix of at least $260 (should take 10-15 minutes).

Hope this helps,
-macbuddy-

I have previously posted this at FitFREAK. Here is what I posted July 2, 2009:
Quote:
Originally Posted by macbuddy View Post
B. Terry,
I had a similar symptoms as described in this thread. I too tried changing spark plugs, with no lasting cure. After a lot of persistence, I was able to finally get my car running back to normal.
Here are two ideas you might want to try. The first idea is free. Try gapping your plugs at less than OEM spec. I re-gapped mine at .035" and my car has been running great since.
Secondly, have you ever run the oil level passed minimum? If so, maybe your vtec solenoid is acting up or damaged. I replaced mine (~$150) and regained the performance that I had lost.
Anyway, try the spark plug re-gap first, and let me know if that helps. I am curious because I performed the vtec replacement prior to the spark plug re-gap. I am wondering if I really needed to replace the vtec solenoid.
-macbuddy-
Here is what I posted Oct 13, 2009:
Quote:
Originally Posted by macbuddy View Post
Hey John,
I don't know if you happened to read my post back in July, but anyway, give this a try. Try re-gapping your plugs to .035" (instead of at factory specs). I closed the gap on my plugs over 3 months ago, and the stutter has not returned. FYI, I haven't noticed a drop in gas mileage, and the performance has not suffered. I have over 83,000 miles on the original OEM plugs (and coil packs). When you have the time, give it a try. It won't cost you anything but 30 minutes of your time. BTW, my Fit is an '07 GD3 5AT if that makes any difference.
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Old 12-16-2009, 01:37 AM
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Reducing the spark plug gap is more than likely just reducing stress on the failing coil packs so they continue working at reduced efficiency.
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Old 12-16-2009, 03:19 AM
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macbuddy macbuddy is offline
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Default Geez, no wonder my Fit won't go over 114 mph!

Quote:
Originally Posted by claymore View Post
Reducing the spark plug gap is more than likely just reducing stress on the failing coil packs so they continue working at reduced efficiency.
"Geez, no wonder my Fit won't go over 114 mph!"



Yeah, you are probably right John, but did you see where Kraftwerks dyno'ed plugs gapped at 0.032", and realized a performance improvement? I know the plugs used were colder plugs, but they worked! Here are the plugs in question:
Denso Iridium Power IK22 Spark Plugs

Here is the Kraftwerks claim:
OSCAR JACKSON ON PLUGS

If you can still get the job done, with less stress on the coil-packs, isn't that a good thing?

Cheers,
-macbuddy-
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Old 12-16-2009, 08:44 AM
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Coincidentally for everyone, claymore suggested the colder plugs and reduced gap to the fitfreak forums 6 months before KraftWerks came up with the very same idea.
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Old 12-16-2009, 09:36 AM
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For sure everyone over there jumped all over his post and "conveniently forgot" about mine and I even showed them "Indexing your plugs" maybe a year before. Everyone questioned the heat range I suggested when I even gave them the plug number and stock number with photos. Then "god' mentions THE EXACT SAME HEAT RANGE I had suggested and to index your plugs and now he's the genius of plugs. But what are you going to do when nobody searches. And what do I know I don't SELL stuff so i must not know what I'm talking about.

Last edited by claymore; 12-16-2009 at 09:46 AM.
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Old 12-16-2009, 09:44 AM
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claymore claymore is offline
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And to answer the question the advantage to a wider gap (if your ignition system can supply enough power) is it exposes more of the incoming fuel/air charge to a source of ignition faster than a smaller gap.

More area of fuel/air mixture burning sooner in the cycle equals more power as more of the mixture burns more completely.

The biggest gap that can be supported without blow out (yep just like it sounds the moving mixture blows out the flame) is the most efficient.

If you do that you may beat 114.......... no wait USDM has that nasty old limiter so you will never match my non-turbo 124 mph.
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  #10  
Old 12-16-2009, 10:24 AM
manxman
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If I recall correctly, there was actually more to macbuddy's whole situation.
MIke, didn't you actually run very low on oil and immediately after that experience the engine problems under load? I remember that you went to a dealer service shop and paid the diagnostic fee (or went to an independent shop with a code reader) and you were told that the Vtec solenoid needed replacement. Did that yourself and saved a bunch of money, and still had intermittent problems that led to the plug re-gapping.

Anyway, that's what I remember from our conversations. And all of these posts make the point that the ignition system of the Fit is finely balanced. A small amount of age-related wear on plugs or coil packs can cause a series of really annoying, sometimes expensive to fix problems.
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