claymore
07-26-2009, 01:32 AM
There is a post on that freaky site about changing plugs that is OK. Happy to see that they are finally catching up as I had our DIY up over there since January 2006.
BUT NEVER EVER use oil in place of anti-seize :eek: It would be better to use NOTHING before putting oil on the spark plug threads.
The reason is the anti-seize is made to prevent corrosion between unlike metals like the aluminum head and the metal plug threads. Anti-seize is also formulated for high temperature use. OIL will NOT prevent this and oil will deteriorate under the high temperatures in that area and turn to carbon residue making it HARDER to remove the plugs and easier to strip the threads. AVOID OIL ON THE THREADS AT ALL COST.
There is another recommendation to use washers for indexing WRONG AGAIN. This post was on a Fit/Jazz site and the Fit/Jazz use a TAPERED washer NOT A FLAT washer for sealing. Using a flat washer on the fit/Jazz will cause an incomplete seal. This is NOT a site for indexing spark plugs in a Chevy Big Block LOL.
The use of washers will also change your heat range rating by pulling the plug tip further out of the combustion chamber making it run colder BUT the use of a washer adds more metal to the heat path between the tip of the plug and the head making it run hotter by retaining the heat for an extra period of time. So who knows what your heat range will be after adding washers so one would have to be sure to check your plugs to see if they are running too hot or too cold.
And if you are removing and replacing the plugs why not index the plugs at the same time as all you are doing is tightening them to a position which you would be doing anyway so who cares how big or small the gain is it is still a FREE GAIN not a loss. We do things here to be the most technically efficient unlike over there where it is ok to be just good enough.:rolleyes:
The author over there doesn't know the torque rating simply because there is none. The "recommendation" is screw the plug down finger tight and then 1/4 to 1/2 further turn. (google some plug manufacturer sites and check their FAQS to see this).
Using dielectric connection grease is OK but in the photo that is way too much you don't need that much on the Jazz/Fit because the sparking units are sealed from the outside air therefore there is a lot less corrosion concern then on systems that use spark plug wires exposed to the air. If you can't find any at your parts store it is perfectly fine to skip that step on a "Fit/Jazz with it's sealed sparking units.
One other area of concern is removing the blue connector on the sparking units breaking the factory seal when removing the connector is totally unnecessary. There is plenty of slack in the wires to move the sparking units out of the way once they are removed from the plugs so it is a waste of time to remove the connector and removing the connector exposes the inner connection pins to the air encouraging corrosion.
BUT NEVER EVER use oil in place of anti-seize :eek: It would be better to use NOTHING before putting oil on the spark plug threads.
The reason is the anti-seize is made to prevent corrosion between unlike metals like the aluminum head and the metal plug threads. Anti-seize is also formulated for high temperature use. OIL will NOT prevent this and oil will deteriorate under the high temperatures in that area and turn to carbon residue making it HARDER to remove the plugs and easier to strip the threads. AVOID OIL ON THE THREADS AT ALL COST.
There is another recommendation to use washers for indexing WRONG AGAIN. This post was on a Fit/Jazz site and the Fit/Jazz use a TAPERED washer NOT A FLAT washer for sealing. Using a flat washer on the fit/Jazz will cause an incomplete seal. This is NOT a site for indexing spark plugs in a Chevy Big Block LOL.
The use of washers will also change your heat range rating by pulling the plug tip further out of the combustion chamber making it run colder BUT the use of a washer adds more metal to the heat path between the tip of the plug and the head making it run hotter by retaining the heat for an extra period of time. So who knows what your heat range will be after adding washers so one would have to be sure to check your plugs to see if they are running too hot or too cold.
And if you are removing and replacing the plugs why not index the plugs at the same time as all you are doing is tightening them to a position which you would be doing anyway so who cares how big or small the gain is it is still a FREE GAIN not a loss. We do things here to be the most technically efficient unlike over there where it is ok to be just good enough.:rolleyes:
The author over there doesn't know the torque rating simply because there is none. The "recommendation" is screw the plug down finger tight and then 1/4 to 1/2 further turn. (google some plug manufacturer sites and check their FAQS to see this).
Using dielectric connection grease is OK but in the photo that is way too much you don't need that much on the Jazz/Fit because the sparking units are sealed from the outside air therefore there is a lot less corrosion concern then on systems that use spark plug wires exposed to the air. If you can't find any at your parts store it is perfectly fine to skip that step on a "Fit/Jazz with it's sealed sparking units.
One other area of concern is removing the blue connector on the sparking units breaking the factory seal when removing the connector is totally unnecessary. There is plenty of slack in the wires to move the sparking units out of the way once they are removed from the plugs so it is a waste of time to remove the connector and removing the connector exposes the inner connection pins to the air encouraging corrosion.