Good news, and Bad news...Scangauge ll

[macbuddy]

I could use some input here.
The "Good" news is that the Scangauge ll that I installed last week works, and was able to read a CEL code that I triggered today. The code detected was "P0451," which means I have an issue involving "Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Range/Performance."
The "Bad" news is that I'm not sure what to do next with this information. I took a glance at the '07 Honda Fit Service Manual, but didn't find an answer yet.
-macbuddy-

[claymore]

Mike that is usually a loose fuel cap message.

[macbuddy]

Ooh, good call. I did just gas up. I'll tighten it up and see if the problem goes away.
Thanks,
Michael

[manxman]

Ooh, good call. I did just gas up. I'll tighten it up and see if the problem goes away.
Thanks,
Michael
claymore beat me to it- I would bet on a "loose" gas cap. Let us know if the code goes away. There have been a LOT of gas cap codes complaints on that OTHER Fit forum.

[macbuddy]

claymore beat me to it- I would bet on a "loose" gas cap. Let us know if the code goes away. There have been a LOT of gas cap codes complaints on that OTHER Fit forum.
Dave and John,
The last time I gassed up, the locking cap for some reason was stuck tight. I had a real struggle at the pump. So when I finished fueling up, I thought I'd make it easier for the next fill up by only turning the cap 3 clicks instead of the normal "852" clicks. Apparently, 3 clicks is not enough. After claymore's advice, I went back to my usual 6 clicks. For the past 2 days however, I've been having to stare at a lit CEL. It wasn't until this evening that the CEL finally went out! Hmm, code "P0451" means that I need to tighten my loose gas cap, and that I will need to wait 2-3 days for it to heal!
Thanks again guys,
-macbuddy-

[claymore]

That's what we are here for. On this site you get technical advice you can count on.:p

[macbuddy]

Okay, I've only had this Scangauge for a short time, but I've already discovered some interesting facts so far.
Here are some findings:
1) Apparently, Honda has set the Fit's throttle position with a maximum opening of 78% when the accelerator is fully depressed. Interestingly, with the Blitz Throttle Controller engaged, and set on SP3, the TPS continues to read only 78% max, and not "100% at WOT." I feel like a "Myth Buster!"
2) Today's high was ~106ºF. The IAT (Intake Air Temperature) read 109ºF at start up. After the car was fully warmed up, the IAT rose to temps ranging between ~118ºF to 148ºF during the course of my normal daily drive. At one point, I noticed a high of 164ºF when I was idling at a stop light, this is with the Injen intake set up in SRI mode. Later this afternoon, I switched the intake to CAI mode. At start up, the temp was 109ºF. As soon as I got the car rolling, the AIT dropped to 103ºF. When I got to a stop light, the AIT only climbed to 105ºF. I wish I had this gauge when I still had the OEM airbox in place. I'm guessing it worked well as an OEM CAI.
3) BTW, I now have a water temperature gauge. The engine water temp display typically reads between 175-184ºF.

As I continue to learn functions of this handy device, I'll report any other interesting finds that I discover.
later,
-macbuddy-

[claymore]

Good report Mike you are discovering just what I reported on the other site ages ago. But I did mine the old fashioned hard way using an indoor/outdoor thermometer. It really does make a difference using a CAI. With my current set up I get outside temp at the TB when moving for a short distance. It also disproves the old heatsoak myth once air starts moving through the piping it cools off rapidly.

Your coolant temps are great using an installed temp gauge with the stock thermostat I was getting readings as high as 220 degrees stopped in traffic and that is why I went to the low temp thermostat and fan switch.

One thing you could watch for me if you have a minute is what is the timing doing like how much advance is put in when. I know it's used on the scangauge because one other guy did a nice write up using different octanes and the effect on timing. Something like more or less when hot or cold engine or when it's hot or cold outside would be a great project.

[macbuddy]

One thing you could watch for me if you have a minute is what is the timing doing like how much advance is put in when. I know it's used on the scangauge because one other guy did a nice write up using different octanes and the effect on timing. Something like more or less when hot or cold engine or when it's hot or cold outside would be a great project.

claymore,
I'm not quite sure what I am monitoring. Maybe this info will make more sense to you. Anyway, on my way to work, I saw "0" advance when I was accelerating, and I saw as high as "29" when I was off the gas, and coasting downhill (@ 4am, 73ºF). On the way home, I saw "0" advance accelerating, and "23" when I lifted off (1pm, 100ºF). I can't give you the readings between "off throttle" and "on throttle" because the numbers are all over the place. Is this what you meant for me to monitor? I'll check this again tomorrow on my trip to and from Sonora, CA.

Off the subject, is this characteristic of CAI? I seem to notice that my SRI offered more low end response, while the CAI seems to be more relaxed, gathering up speed all the way to 5,000 rpm, then at 5K it comes on really strong! Also, ever since I added the Injen CAI, I've been averaging ~30 miles more between fill ups. I've seen this on the past 3 tanks full. I normally drive ~20-40 miles past the low fuel light warning. BTW. I used this technique for 20 years on my 1986 Accord (went 317,647 miles before I sold it to get the Fit), I practiced this so often, that I ended up burning out the fuel warning light!
-macbuddy-

[claymore]

Mike, those readings look strange for ignition timing. They should be higher when getting on it and less when cruising. Sounds more like vacuum readings.

Yep a CAI has less low end as the air column has to move a longer distance due to all that pipe but picks up when the air gets moving hence the better top end in addition to the cooler air making more power.

Any mod that makes power will normally make for better gas mileage (if you don't get carried away tromping on it all the time) because you have to use less gas pedal to get the same speeds or rate of acceleration. Win/Win

[macbuddy]

As I continue to learn functions of this handy device, I'll report any other interesting finds that I discover.
later,
-macbuddy-

Okay, as I promised over 4 months ago, I am reporting back.

Prior to the SG2, I would count on getting ~33.5 mpg. Even my spirited driving style would not cause fuel consumption to fluctuate much from that, maybe a mile or two either way. On the high side, I once hit ~38 mpg, but that was all freeway, driving at a steady 72 mph. On the low side, I once got 28 mpg, but that was the tank that I went through when experimenting with my brand new Blitz throttle controller.

Since having the SG2, I have learned some interesting facts.
1) There is no possible way that I can get "great" mpg driving in town. The SG2 shows that constant starting, acceleration, stopping, and idling just kills the mileage. I now cringe when waiting at long stoplights. I can see my mpg drop before my eyes, and there is nothing I can do about it (short of turning off the ignition).
2) I thought that I could paddle-shift my way to better mpg. Not true for me. I found that my mpg increased when using full auto mode. Apparently Honda's ECU is better than me at this point. Maybe some day I'll be good enough to beat the ECU.
3) I've read that the ECU would not send fuel to the injectors when decelerating, i.e. all the way down to 30 mph. Once it goes below this speed, the ECU would "kick in" sending fuel to the injectors once again. It does so to make sure that the engine maintains an idle. My SG2 shows that this holds true all the way down to ~1,200 rpm. When I go below ~1,200 rpm, the SG2 shows that fuel is being introduced once again. I've learned that if I manually downshift to a lower gear, doing so tells the ECU to delay sending fuel to the injectors. So, if you are coasting downhill at less than 30 mph (or less than 1,200 rpm), downshift to save gas. I would never have thought of doing this before using the SG2!
4) Sometimes common sense doesn't apply. There are conditions when I get better mpg driving 65 mph, than when driving 55 mpg. At times like this, I don't question the SG2, I just drive accordingly and reap the rewards.
5) Using one of the many SG2 features, I essentially have an outside air temperature reader since I am monitoring the ambient air drawn through my cold air intake.
6) Pulse and Glide does seem to work! It doesn't make sense to me, and I don't understand it, but I find myself gliding quite a bit these days.

Most of this info may seem like common sense to others, but it wasn't until I began using the Scangauge that I actually practiced serious driving for mileage.

It seems that having this gauge in front of me constantly challenges me to "beat" my latest mpg score!

-macbuddy-

PS-as of last tankful, I got "my" best mileage since owning my Fit.
380.2 miles / 9.67 gal = 39.32 mpg!

[claymore]

Nice reporting. It's reports like this that give FACTS that we are learning the TRUTH about the Fit/Jazz and what the ECU does when. No uneducated guesses like you know where.

I wish the guy that did the nice job with his scan gauge reporting about ignition timing and octane would post it up over here.